The waters of Shinsen-en garden, almost a thousand years since the ponds were dug, are murky black. But come a single toss of the wafers sold at a small machine (beside a statue of buddha) and the waters practically froth to life. Hundreds of black koi emerge from the depths, some monstrously large, to fight and squabble over the few morsels of food. The daring leap from the water, while the others slurp away with their pink-lipped mouths, a swirling confusion of slippery scales and flapping tails.