Otsu at twilight
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I took this photo as the bus plunged around the hairpin curves of the Hiei Driveway and so it is far from great. An early twilight grew out of the rain, but could not diminish the stunning scenery of Lake Biwa.
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26 08 09 - 07:42 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
The 1,200 year old flame
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Within the Kompon Chudo burns a tiny flame sitting in a saucer of oil. Twice daily the supervising monk replenishes the oil within the golden lantern, a task that has been undertaken for nigh on 1,200 years since the founder of Enryaku-ji first lit the flame. A kindly monk came over to explain the meaning of the light (you are not permitted to take photos of the building or inside the hall). Although you can only see the hint of a flicker from within the lamp, helpfully there is a giant photo hung up which shows a tiny lick of flame. In many ways the fire represents not only the compassionate light of Buddha and enlightenment, but also the enduring qualities of both Enryaku-ji and Kyoto itself (founded at about the same time the lamp was first lit). It is a nice tale, but I am afraid my cynicism clouds my thoughts at this point.
Not only did Enryaku-ji burn to the ground sporadically throughout its history, but was actually entirely annihilated by Oda Nobunaga. As the soldiers were slaughtering at random, did some monk pick up the lantern and flee? No, I do not think so. But then again, many shrines and temples do not know themselves the truths behind myths that have grown up. If it gives the faithful hope then why not believe such tall tales?
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26 08 09 - 07:41 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
September 25th
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The Big Day. September 25th. Osaka.
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26 08 09 - 07:31 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Mountain frog
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Misako squealed and danced in disgust at this monstrous beast barring the upper path to Chigusa's grave. It was about the size of my little finger's nail.
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26 08 09 - 07:00 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Fading
This poor (discoloured) praying mantis was clearly on its last legs, racing for cover but weak incredibly weak. Bad for him, but good for photographers and birds.
19 08 09 - 08:18 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
You lookin' at me?
16 08 09 - 07:29 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Gozan no Okuribi
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Gozan no Okuribi, more commonly known as Daimonji is one of Kyoto's most iconic festivals, and certainly unique around the world. It is the culmination of the Obon festival on August 16th, in which five giant bonfires are lit on mountains surrounding the city. It signifies the moment when the spirits of deceased family members, who are said to visit this world during Obon, are believed to be returning to the spirit world (thus the name Okuribi - send-off fire).
Although there are several interpretations as to the origins of this event, it is generally regarded as growing from the ritual of setting fires at the city gates to see off the souls of ancestors (after commemorating the welcoming of their souls). The character of Dai (meaning large) on Mt. Daimonji, and those of Myo and Ho which make up the word Myo-ho (meaning wonderful doctrine, or wondrous teaching of Buddha) on Matsugasaki Nishiyama and Higashiyama mountains are perhaps most famous.
In addition to these three places, fires are simultaneously set to the character Dai on Mt. Hidari-Daimonjiyama at Kinkakuji Okitayama, as well as to a ship-like Funagata motif on Mt. Funayama at Nishi-Kamo, and a Toriigata motif (like the gate erected at the entrance of a shrine) on Mt. Manadarayama in Saga. These fires are collectively called Daimonji Gozan Okuribi.
The upper horizontal first stroke of the character Dai measures 80 metres long. The second stroke, which is the curved line from the center top to the bottom left, is 160 meters long, and the curved third stroke from the center top to the bottom right is 120 meters long. Seventy-five fire burning areas are set up, where split firewood of pine tree and pine needles are piled up and set ablaze all at once at 8 o'clock in the evening. The fire burns for about 30 minutes on each of the mountains (with slight differences in duration). Moreover, it has been believed since olden times that if you drink sake or water with the burning Daimonji characters reflected in your cup this very night, you will be protected from illness.
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16 08 09 - 07:27 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Sunflowers
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Sunflowers in Arashiyama on another unseasonably cloudy Saturday.
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16 08 09 - 07:22 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Bonfire Night
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Now that Mizu-kun is happily married off, sadly we will have to forgo the nights spent viewing the Daimonji from his parent's rooftop. I had such high hopes for bonfire night, but as all best laid plans this one didn't exactly work out. It was my intention to cycle from the bridge at Demachiyanagi in a wide circle of the city, snapping as I went along. As the first bonfires are lit at 8pm, and then at five to ten minute intervals, I thought that I might just have enough time to catch them all with my camera. What I didn't count on was the sheer amount of ponderous people, nor having Andy and Omar tag along. As much as I love them both, in my experience too many cooks definitely spoil the broth.
Photographing the Daimonji is always hard, but this year proved an epic nightmare. Truthfully I am my own worst critic, but I am happy with none of the pictures. Crushed together with the thousands of others beneath Mt. Daimonji* on the Aoi Park bridges, there seemed no order to the proceedings and successive waves of people pushed and shoved for better position (including the tallest Japanese man I have ever seen) which stirred up a chaotic crush. Come the lighting of the bonfires and it was impossible not to be amused by the cooing of the crowds, all with cellphones held skyward to take photos. Sugoi! Sugoi! It is true that in recent years people are concerned more with documenting their experience rather than living it, something I too am guilty of.
Leaving the chaos behind, we pedaled with furious speed up the Shimogamo Hondori only to discover the next fires had already been lit. Immediately my theory on being able to photograph all the bonfires was dispelled. Rushing into the sports park at Takaragaike, we were in time to watch the single character 'Myo' burning on the hill close by (its twin 'Ho' being out of sight**) but were far too close and so the bonfires appeared as mere dots on the mountainside, rather than the kanji character they were supposed to represent. By then the Funagata (boat-shaped bonfire) had already been lit and so the evening was over. Sweaty and irritable, I took the evening as a lesson to next time enjoy Daimonji from a distance with a cool beer in hand.
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16 08 09 - 07:21 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Artful defence
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This little chap was sitting atop our gate-light this morning. I am not quite sure whether he is alive or dead, but I left well enough alone and hope it looks unappetizing to the circling birds.
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13 08 09 - 17:05 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Nunobiki Falls
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I stood at the bend of a mountain road today, the very path that winds up from the Nunobiki Falls all the way to the herb gardens that straddle the hilltop. It was not a particularly pretty bend, the barrier covered in graffiti and the withered grass of the banks speckled with garbage, but it overlooked the forested base of the mountains and I thought how ridiculous it is to take such small things for granted. I never seem to be able to live in the moment. I take photos, look back and think how lucky I am, but the here and now is mostly a blur. If ever there was a reason that we have temporarily abandoned England then this is it. Life hurries by so quickly that for the first time I think I understand the necessity in sitting still and soaking up the world around.
What I suppose I am bumbling on about is how nice it is, in this case by acting as tour guide for P-Dez, to be forced to sit still and take in the surrounds, when usually I would be scooting off immediately to do something else.
Kobe's Nunobiki Falls (comprising of four separate falls: Ondaki, Mendaki, Tsusumigadaki, and Meotodaki) has important significance in Japanese literature and Japanese art, and is considered one of Japan's greatest 'divine falls'. A well-known section of the Tales of Ise describes a trip taken by a minor official and his guests to Nunobiki Falls during which time they hold a poetry-writing contest.
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13 08 09 - 00:52 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
The Herb Garden
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How easy it is to look through rose-tinted memories at a place you left behind, how simple to paste over cracks in the idyll and fill unhappy times with fuggy thoughts of better things. This is Kobe for me, a place that has not been my home for a long time, but will forever be my Japanese home, the defining part of my early twenties and a great piece of my personality so to speak. Because I moved from the city before I had the chance to tire of it, it will remain perfect in my mind, perpetually sunny and beautiful, cosmopolitan and friendly. Kyoto intrigues me, but Kobe was my first love and so it remains.
Why the weepy reminiscence? Well I suppose that for the first time in about four years I truly took the effort to show someone (Paul and Dez in this instance, pictured) all the sights of the city. I wanted for them to unreasonably love Kobe as I do. Rather than change my predilection, the trip reaffirmed it. Forested mountains tumble into the glistening haze of Osaka Bay, a metropolitan-microcosm filled with wide boulevards and bright skyscrapers, fine shopping streets and pretty sea-side views. It is the new Japan, built from a clean slate following the destruction of war, but emerging clean and airy, the antithesis of Osaka.
Who could not love this city? It may receive no more than a few pages in any guidebook of Japan, but could there be a finer place to live?
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13 08 09 - 00:43 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
Rhod expounds on the wonders of Ninna-ji to Paul and Dez
09 08 09 - 23:29 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
A taste of Rhod-House
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A week has passed since the move to Rhod House (for the sake of the blog and for various other reasons this is how I shall from now on refer to the new place) and things are slowly coming together. In the brilliant and unforgiving sunlight, my first exploration of the house was met with a gentle sigh and perhaps unfair disappointment. The house in almost every way is like our old apartment but with twice the space, including indoor toilet and loft.
Now that I have spent a week turning the house into a livable space with working fridge and cooker, I discover that each day I am surprised by liking the rooms and the potential they each hold. Moving day was relatively stress free though it poured and poured, which was not entirely helpful when we were purchasing important electrical items, but in four days we have pretty much created a homely little machiya. Quite an achievement considering switching countries and properties twice in the space of a year.
Rhod House sits on a tiny little patchwork of roads, literally jammed into one corner of Shusei-Inari Shrine, which I will write about later. The shrine is pretty, though unremarkable by Japanese standards. There is a tiny front garden with trees and hydrangea bushes, and potential for a barbeque space. Entering the house there is a genkan (where you remove your shoes), then a step up to the ground floor. To your right are the stairs and a small toilet. Anyone who saw our previous 'squatting' toilet will be pleased to know this one is inside, fitted with heated toilet seat and bidet, and decorated with fantastic blue tiles on the wall and floor. The kitchen is a thin galley-like thing with all the necessary, if battered, units. Living room follows dining room, and as is often the way the bathroom (with sunken, metal cauldron bath) and sink area are separated from the toilet, and on the ground floor. Outside the back door is a patio area completely covered, in which sits the washing machine and potential for plant area.
The decor of the house is retro and Japanese, that is to say newish and yet still remarkably old fashioned. While it is quite plain, I have noticed that every room is subtly different, some with tatami and others with wooden floors. There is a hideous chandelier type lamp hanging in the dining room, both over-the-top and unnecessary. Rhod hates it but I will defend it with my life. It is so ugly it is brilliant.
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09 08 09 - 23:21 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
The festival to protect the Kamo River for our children
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Passing across Shijo Bridge to find the 'prettiest street in Asia' (according to the Lonely Planet Guidebook of Japan), we noticed tents pitched along one side of the Kamo right up to the Sanjo Bridge. Turns out it was to promote the beautification of the river by inviting various people to set up stalls and thus undo the actual beauty of the river. Nice job. Squeezed into the slow moving crowds, across mucky sand spread to try and level of the cobble-stones, there appeared no reasoning to the tents, nor any real promotion of the river itself. Most stall holders seemed half drunk, laughing amongst themselves. Interestingly there was quite a few old people teaching vanishing skills, such as koto playing and calligraphy, as well as a wailing women choir in floral outfits and a presentation of dying processes in the river itself (long strips of material were anchored into the water, allowing the excess dye to wash off and the colour to fasten).
The idea was there, if only half thought out, and although I usually hate crowds I do generally agree that these kind of festivals can do the city a lot of good. What does not do the river good is a city government determined to completely landscape all nature into oblivion and enforcing strict rules about actually enjoying the river. No barbeques? What miserable old sour-puss thought that one up. I cannot remember the city ever being endangered by rogue coals or troubled by the delicious smells of cooking food that help to cover the summer stench of sewers. Humbug I say. Let the Kamo be free.
We did find the 'prettiest street' described in the book, the ochaya district about the Shirakawa River, only it transpires that the writer considered it only really pretty in cherry blossom season and that he or she clearly doesn't know Kyoto, or Japan, or Asia very well. What a ridiculous thing to say! Anyone who knows Kyoto, knows that the prettiest streets are those around the Kamo Shrine. Take that Lonely Planet.
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09 08 09 - 23:01 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
View from old apartment
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For June we stayed in a monthly mansion (apartment), which was very cramped indeed but had a rather amazing view. This is about the only photo I have of the place, but I would advise anyone coming to Japan for an extended period to rent somewhere like this as it was centrally located yet perfectly quiet.
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05 08 09 - 19:12 - kieren - Photostory| - § ¶
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