kyonoki

The ghosts of Midoroga-ike

The man asks the taxi driver to take him to Midoroga-ike Pond in the Northern part of Kyoto, that part of the city that stretches towards the massive Mt. Hiei-zen (guardian of the city). It is night and as the taxi drives up the twists and turns of the road, that winds up towards the marshy pond and the forests beyond, he is especially careful of other cars as the road is barely wide enough for one. The passenger says little. It is late and the taxi driver does not expect conversation. Midoroga-ike approaches. And the man is gone. The taxi driver goes cold, for another ghost has made it to the mysterious pond. He hurriedly drives away, back to the lights and life of the city. The tales of ghostly men and women taking taxis to the pond at night are common ones in the city of Kyoto. Whether or not the stories have been passed down from the times of palanquins and ox-drawn carts cannot be known, but Midoroga-ike is a terribly haunted place come the night. Houses rest along one side, but little other development has taken place. The roads are still thin and dangerous, men from the bus companies having to block off the road when a bus is due, so that it may pass safely. Midoroga-ike means 'shallow lake of mud', which is apt as most of the pond is a marshy, plant-clogged mess. Only a small strip of water pushes through the foliage on the Southern tip of lake. But wildlife thrives here, along with rare plants and insects. It is protected. And it is ancient. Scientists believe it has existed from the last Ice Age at least. Maybe it is more than luck that has saved the lake from development, perhaps it is superstition and spirits. The ghosts of Midoroga-ike, even in the light of day, can be felt deeply in these parts. A country of temples and shrines and gods that once lived in these mountains.

31 05 07 - 18:11 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

7) A Short Guide to the History of Kyoto: The Golden Pavilion.

31 05 07 - 17:58 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Otaku objects

Part three of 'geek goods', and the gamer junk we have collected over the last few years. Rhod was given a horde of toys and Nintendo products for his birthday. As Nintendo has recaptured the games market in Japan, so the shops seem ever flooded with their merchandise. The problem is that each shop seems to sell very different items, a nightmare for those who collect Mario goods and the like. Whoever at Nintendo is licensing the goods is doing a smart job, making them seem much more exclusive by limiting them to particular stores.		This little one-up mushroom emerging from a question block is in fact a solar-powered desk toy. Gently, the Mario mushroom rocks from side to side during the day. It retails for just over a thousand yen. The next toys are sound-bites, something that are increasingly popular in an already overly noisy country. The figures of Mario and Luigi sit on boxes, that when pushed down make a whole array of different sounds from the Mario universe (from coin get to one-up). They have been available in most convenience stores for a couple of hundred yen.
Hanafuda Cards (a kind of Japanese playing cards) are available in most stores for a few thousand yen. Rhod collects them and happens to have a very limitied set featuring Super Mario characters. Nintendo (Koppai) founded their company on producing such affordable games at the turn of the century, before moving into the computer games industry decades later. The game revolves around matching certain cards, all which show pictures of flowers representing the months of the year. I am not entirely sure of the rules, please click the link to find out more.		Misako bought Rhod this tiny remote controlled car from Takara Tomy. The cars come in various makes, this one being a Japanese Patrol Car. Working on batteries similar to those used in digital watches, the car works on infrared remote (which is also tiny). Sold for a few thousand yen, the Q-Steer cars are an addictive addition to work desks. Finally an item not sold in shops. Tomomi visited the Cup Noodle Museum in Osaka, world famous, and asked artists (you are also able to write your own messages) to draw a picture of Mario on a tub before it was wrapped. Very cool.

31 05 07 - 05:15 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Tales from Rokuharamitsu-ji

Some weeks ago I wrote about Rokuharamitsu-ji when researching the history of Kyoto. These are two of the tales Etsuyo told me whilst we walked between temples. One she overheard the monk telling to visitors in Rokuharamitsu-ji, the other she remembered after visiting a sweet shop close by the temple.

The statues of Taira no Kiyomori and Kuya may have made Rokuharamitsu-ji famous throughout the country, but it is the statue of jizo clinging to a band of hair that provides one of the most intriguing tales of the temple. The statue is unique and before the tiny altar many have left packets of their own hair in silent thanks. In the reign of Emperor Murakami (946-967) there lived at Gojo -in Kyoto- a man who had once been in the service of a noble at Court, but had now fallen on hard times. The man became a monk and, at their wit's end, his wife and children prayed to Rokuhara Jizo. The wife died but, with the aid of an old monk, her daughter was able to give her a proper funeral at Toribeno. In fact the old monk was an incarnation of Rokuhara Jizo. In gratitude the girl offered her hair, her most precious possession, and Rokuhara Jizo wrapped it around his hand, which is why he was known as 'Jizo holding the hair' (Katsura-jizo).

The second tale, called Yureikosodate-ame, involves a candy store. It is a story from Momoyama times (though its theme is an ancient one) and is famous throughout Japan. There was once a shop owner who sold delicious candy close to Chinko-ji Temple. One woman would return daily to his Monzen shop to buy his candy. After weeks went past he thought it a little odd that the lady (named 'Emura-san') returned every single day. His curiosity was piqued by the oddness of the situation, so he decided to follow her. Indeed there was something strange about the woman for she was very pale, even in the humid summer weather.

She led him up the roads that ran towards the Eastern hills, to a parcel of land filled with graves. Shocked, the shop owner hid behind a tombstone in the small cemetery at Kodai-ji and watched as she made her way to a tiny plot. Whereupon she disappeared. The shop-keeper ran to the spot and heard the faint cries of a baby. So the woman was a ghost after all, and had paid with the money tossed into her casket to aid her in the after-life. With his hands he uncovered the grave, only to discover a newborn babe. Beside the child was the candy bought from his shop. The remains of the child's dead mother lay by the way, keeping the child warm while in the tomb. The shopowner scooped up the child and prayed for the soul of the woman, swearing he would look after her baby. She never visited his shop again. The same candy that the ghost purchased is still very popular, and very delicious. As for the child, it was said that he grew up to be a famous monk. (more)

29 05 07 - 23:53 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The dead emperor's clothes

The young emperor Antoku was picked up by his grandmother and as he clutched to her breast, she jumped overboard and into the sea. Both drowned as the battle raged about them, the Taira finally defeated by the Minamoto (who had crowned a second emperor) and civil war brought to a bloody end at last on coast of Kyushu. Antoku's mother followed her son, but was caught by a rake and dragged back to safety by her hair. She was devastated, her sons body returned lifeless and frail. He was only eight years old and had become the focus of the Taira's hopes to keep control of the country. Kenreimon-in returned to the capital and took up holy orders, isolating herself forever from the world. With the clothes Antoku had worn at his death, she fashioned a flag that she donated to the monks at Choraku-ji Temple who had sheltered her in her time of need. The flag remains there still, shown only a few days a year.

29 05 07 - 17:59 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Godzillapillar

At Ota-jinja I found this monstrous caterpillar in the glade behind the shrine. Looks like he is getting ready to become a moth or a butterfly.

29 05 07 - 03:39 - kieren - Photostory| one comment - § ¶

A shrine to break up your marriage

Say you wish to break up with your boyfriend or girlfriend, say you never want to see your parents or parents-in-law again, perhaps you are hoping for a certain man to break up with his wife, or you simply wish to be able to leave your job. Then there is a shrine for you. In this shrine sits a rock with a hole through its centre. Write your heart's desire on a slip of shrine paper, stick it to the thousands of other wishes plastered to the rock-face and climb through the hole. Your wish will be granted. Strange then that so many come to this shrine to pray for a successful marriage. Or is that perhaps a smart move, a thought for the future. Stony resolve in the face of the thousands of captured prayers from men and women wishing for their lovers to vanish from their lives. A final test? In all honesty, I was tempted to write the name of a few friends who I thought might need this. A lonely woman was pottering around the shrine, clearly not wanting to leave, but obviously uncomfortable. Likely she wished to hang up one of the votive tablets, but felt concious that we would be watching her. The shrine was built in 1695 and enshrines Emperor Sutoku. There is an old building that displays 'ema' (votive tablets') from famous people across Japan who have scrawled their hopes and wishes in prayer that they will come true, as well as ema from throughout the Edo period. 'Ema' literally means a picture of a horse, and horses are still the theme of most votive tablets in Japan. Tradition says that a god once rode into the shrine riding a horse. A shrine for marriage that has become the hope of desperate people everywhere.

28 05 07 - 19:38 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

6 Part II) A Short Guide to the History of Kyoto: The Rise of Zen

28 05 07 - 02:05 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Honen's exile to Shikoku

Etsuyo, Jess and I were fortunate enough to see Honen's statue being moved from Chion-in to his new temporary home in Shikoku. The real Honen was once exiled to Shikoku, the smallest of Japan's main islands. Etsuyo had mentioned the missing statue when she visited the Miedo and it was pure luck that we were there to see the removal.

27 05 07 - 19:13 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The evil goblins of Shitennoji

Shitennoji Temple in Osaka (originally Naniwa Province) is the oldest officially administered temple in Japan, built by Prince Shotoku (574-622 A.D.) -that great cultural hero of early Japanese history- who at the age of sixteen successfully triumphed over the opposition and brought about the adoption of Buddhism into the country. The battle was between the Soga Clan and the Monobe Clan. The Soga, represented by Prince Shotoku, wanted Japan to adopt Buddhism (a newly arrived, highly developed religion from India via China) and the powerful Monobe were opposed, supporting instead the ancient Japanese religion of Shinto. The Prince, it was said, achieved his victory by praying to the Four Heavenly Kings, the soldiers of the Buddha. And it was to mark that victory that in 593 A.D. he ordered the construction of Shitennoji Temple. Shitennoji may be the favourite shrine of many Japanese people, fondly regarded as the Buddhist altar of Osaka, but there is a startling difference between the smallest and poorest of Kyoto's temples and this, Osaka's main temple. Despite its fairly recent rennovation (Osaka did not survive WWII in the same way as Kyoto) in most parts, it remains a forlorn and rather dismal sight. Dirty and discarded. Turtles swim in filthy ponds, the rennovations look shockingly fabricated and theme-parkish, and the attendants truly wish no-one ever came to visit for they are the most beastly, goblin-faced women I have ever seen. It looks as if I have become spoilt on the treasures of Kyoto and have become jaded with temples that should inspire rather than leaving one a little blank faced. Gokuraku-jodo Garden comes a something of a surprise, behind the turtle ponds of Shitennoji. The garden is built around the fable 'Nigabyaku-doh', once preached by the Chinese priest Zendoh. 'Niga' refers to two rivers of fire and water. The Water River represents a greedy mind when you are well-off, the Fire River refers to anger in a person's misfortune. The two rivers are a living hell in life. Byakudoh is a white path between the rivers, a way to paradise. Only those who are truly eager to reach paradise can see this invisible road. Well, yes, pretty.

26 05 07 - 19:28 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Kyoto's gardens

Those lazy summer months are coming. Days languishing in Kyoto's soupy heat, sweat beaded permanently on brow, body tired from sleepless nights under the whirring moan of fans. Only people born in Kyoto are insane enough to live and work in this heat...or so many of the Japanese say when visiting the city. Rainy season will shortly arrive with blustery damp, but before then it is the perfect time to enjoy the cloudless skies and gentle breezes. Soon the sun will bleach everything and -as people have done for a millenia- we will turn to the hillsides for a reprieve from the heat.

I am not a big fan of Japanese gardens. I can appreciate them, but they rarely have me excited as when I read about the history of the battles, intrigue, tragedies and romance played out in the ancient halls of the city. So naturally I spent the day visiting four very different gardens with Etsuyo. I have to admit a running stream or a turtle will keep me more than happy. The pictures are in sets of three from top to bottom. (more)

26 05 07 - 02:59 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

6) A Short Guide to the History of Kyoto: The Shogun and the Emperor

25 05 07 - 19:51 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Mifune Festival

The third Sunday in May is the Mifune Matsuri, so we cycled with Andy and Etsuyo to take a look at the colourful boats punting on the River Oi. At around 2pm, 30 boats carrying imperial costumed participants move up and down the Oi River. This is an annual festival of Kurumazaki-jinja Shrine. It started about 1100 years ago when Emperor Uda enjoyed boat riding in this area. During the festival the imperial houseboat leads the way, carrying players chanting noh dramas and reading Chinese and Japanese poetry. Then comes the Dragon Boat, carrying musicians playing the eerie stately court music known as gagaku. The Phoenix Boat follows with several miko (shrine maidens) bearing traditional Shinto offerings. The other thirty boats feature some other art or entertainment form.

Sacred dances, poetry readings, noh dramas and traditional melodies are performed on the boats, while beautiful Kyoto fans are floated downstream in a tradition that dates back to the 9th century, when Arashiyama was a favourite beauty spot of the Heian court. As the folding fans are tossed into the waters, boaters frantically row to scoop up the prizes. Occasionally the long-boats lazily hug the shore, giving onlookers the chance to plead for fans. It was truly strange to watch octogenarians begging with cupped hands, chanting 'chodai!' ('please give me') in girlish voices. Should a fan be thrown onto the river bank there was a sudden flurry of pinching hands and scuffling legs. Etsuyo set her eyes on getting a fan, but the old people were shockingly disgraceful. Once Rhod saw how badly behaved they were, he had no qualms in shoving his way through to snatch up a fan for her. The soggy fans are considered a great prize and despite being soaked with river water, still smell of perfume. (more)

24 05 07 - 18:36 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

From Hagra, with love

Lately I have felt a little down about dwindling finances and my so far unsuccessful attempt at finding a job that will suit me. The interviews I attend all go very well, I get offered a job and then am forced to turn it down when I realise that my commute will be around three or four hours in total a day (something each company refuses to tell me before I get offered a job). So I was laughing and almost crying today when a present arrived from Mrs Bagshaw of Merstham. A weasel-ball no less. A blast from the past and the one thing able to lift my spirits this week. Following the devastating Battle of Mujrumcomelpec -between the forces of Scagba and Hagra- in the deepest jungles of South America, Hagra was forced to flee. However, she unleashed a great plague upon the world in the form of a simple toy that was not all that it seemed to be. Hundreds of millions of weasel-balls were shipped across the globe to oblivious toy-store owners, only for them to start their dastardly campaign to take over the world. Hagra would appear to have won the day. And so this nonsense found its way into e-mails sent between myself and Louisa when we had no classes at university, all stemming from a strange picture I had doodled during one particularly boring lecture. And so the saga continued, Hagra modelled (though I cannot remember why) around Louisa herself. I cannot recall where the story went, only that the weasel-balls were the minions of Hagra's new empire. And yes, I was very bored and I am very weird. Thank you Ms. Louisa for the most thoughtful of presents. I love it. Though I fear the creature when the sun is down and lights are out at bed-time. P.S. If it is not alive, then why are there air holes on the side of the box? Huh, huuuuh.

24 05 07 - 03:50 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The kneeling samurai

Etsuyo and Jess pose in front of Takayama Masayuke's statue. He kneels in the direction of the Imperial Palace, forever caught in humility before the home of the emperor. Which is fitting, as he died in the name of the emperor and helped set in motion a revolution that would sweep the country and remove the shogun forever. Takayama Masayuke (also known as Hikokuro, 1747-93) was barely 18 years old when he arrived in the imperial city and began to research the history of his nation. The more he studied, the more shocked he was to discover that the shogun had in fact usurped power from the emperor to control the country. Upon visiting the Imperial Palace he found the buildings in a poor state, the royal family impoverished and shamed. Takayama had not understood just how powerless the emperor had become over the centuries, the shogun living in the oppulence once only reserved for the sons of the sun goddess. So moved was he by the unfairness of the situation that he traveled through the provinces, preaching about the imperial family and attempting to increase the reputation of their true leader. On returning to Kyoto, Takayama fell to his knees before Sanjo Bridge, facing North West and the direction of the palace. He was showing the respect he felt the emperor was owed. Only a few years later he commited ritual sacrifice (seppuku) to provoke the people into joining the imperial cause against the Tokugawa. It was one of the first challenges to shogunal supremacy and would help spark a powerful revolution. In 1868 when the emperor indeed took back control of the country (under the Meiji Restoration) a statue was erected in Takayama's memory.

23 05 07 - 06:43 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Return to Oz

23 05 07 - 00:54 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The beast bee of Shosei-en

I rather like the idea of a giant bee living in the Boka-kaku Gate of Shosei-en Garden, terrorising the visitors on a daily basis. Clearly the sign is a little off in what it meant to say, but it is just another charming touch in a charming garden of tea houses, ponds and arbors. Shosei-en is a refreshing change from the strict severity of other Japanese gardens. You are free to wander across the grass (for allowing me to kick off my shoes and walk barefoot over the grass I have to say that it beats other gardens hands down), explore the grounds and peer in to every nook and cranny. The staff were friendly and signs tried to make it clear why you have to pay a fee to enter the grounds (explaining what the money is spent on). Plus your fee gets you a glossy brochure, which in any other garden would have cost a few tousand yen. Clearly this is a garden in the true sense of the word, one that you are drawn into and allowed to experience. Shosei-en Garden -also named Kikoku-tei after the orange groves that once encircled the ponds- is only a few minutes from Higashi Honganji, which might help to explain why it is so often overlooked and overshadowed by its grandiose neighbour (although the garden itself belongs to this same temple). Originally the garden was part of the Rokujo Kawahara-in mansion of Prince Minamoto Notoru, son of Emperor Saga, who lived in the ninth century. The prince fashioned a large pond to resemble the seacoast of Shiogama, Oku Province (present day Miyagi Prefecture), and even imported huge amounts of sea water from Osaka Bay (Namba) as a finishing touch. A few hundred years later and the garden had gone to seed, the buildings abandoned. Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1641 gave the garden and the land around it to Higashi Honganji and a few years later Sennyo Shonin (13th hereditary heir to the Higashi Honganji Temple) commissioned Ishiyama Saijo to create a new garden. Shosei-en was born.

22 05 07 - 23:00 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

5) A Short Guide to the History of Kyoto: The Clash of the Taira and Minamoto

21 05 07 - 18:24 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Vignettes of a night out

20 05 07 - 05:14 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Aoi Matsuri

The grounds of the Imperial Palace were bursting with people, but Etsuyo and I arrived at the perfect time to grab a spot behind some students who were more interested in playing cards on the ground. As the Aoi Matsuri* spilled out from Palace, the weather was perfect for taking photos of the bright costumes and beautiful horses.

The festival was worth getting sunburnt over, and for an hour we stood and watched the colourful parade as the ancient couple next to me gave a running commentary that helped me understand that for some this event still plays an important role in their beliefs. My only complaint is that the flowers used to decorate carts and umbrellas were all clearly plastic. As the festival is named after hollyhocks, it seemed a little odd that they were fake. Real flowers might have looked a bit sad when attacked by the wind, but the authenticity might have made it more meaningful somehow. A great day. It means I have now seen all of Kyoto's three great festivals.

20 05 07 - 02:49 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The 30 List

I just shaved for the first time this month, and under all that lazy beard was the same Rhod! I've not somehow transformed into a more responsible and respectable version of myself, despite hitting that social milestone of 30 years of age last week. So... goodbye the 20s. Time for a look back at all that they gave to me. Click the jump for my list... (more)

19 05 07 - 00:25 - rhod - kyonoki| three comments - § ¶

Geek goods

This Nintendo Wii controller is in fact a TV remote. As part of the Nintendo Club Platinum Membership, annually Rhod receives a special and very limited gift. Nintendo Club only works in Japan. Each game and piece of hardware comes with a slip of paper inside. After joining the club you type the code written on each slip of paper to transform it into points. These points allow you to chose from a special list of Nintendo presents. After you buy a certain amount of merchandise each year you receive Platinum membership and thus are entitled to a free present.		Last year was this TV remote, launched months before the actual Wii. Rhod carried it around with him everywhere he went, such was his anticipation. This year's gift was a choice between 'Tingle Balloon Fight" for the DS, or a Wii remote etched with your own name. Bandai's Poika is a plastic candle with a little, glowing flame-man who twists out and lights up when you make a noise. Blowing on him sends him back to sleep. Thus he is much like a real candle but cuter. Poika retail for a few thousand yen and are available in a variety of colours.
The Namaketarou range of health pillows with cute faces come in many shapes, sizes and colours. The little creatures have small arms and legs, with the pillow part making up their main body. This square peach one is a TV pillow for resting your head on while you lie on the floor. You slip a herbal sack inside that gives off a relaxing fragrance (such as lavender). From 800 to 4000 yen the series includes face mask, neck pillow, cushion, wrist rest for computing and luxurious bed pillow.		The pyramid of characters is made up from small Animal Crossing figures in small plastic cases. The figures are 100 yen each and can be bought from Capsule Machines. The characters are on their third series. The last picture is of a Goomba Bath Mat. The small square mats are based on Mario iconography: Bricks, Question Boxes, Goombas and Jumping Mario. They are sold at about 1500 yen each. As of now everything but the Wii remote are available in shops.

18 05 07 - 23:48 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Three O

My birthday creation for Rhod.	Quite a blaze going.	Happy birthday Rhod!

17 05 07 - 01:36 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The headless shoguns of Toji-in

When Takauji became shogun in 1336 he moved the seat of power back to Kyoto from Kamakura, so that he could better control the imperial throne. The emperor had high hopes that Takauji would champion his cause and wrestle control of the country back for him. Takauji did so only to find himself lured by this same power and so betrayed Emperor Go-Daigo to become the most powerful figure in Japan. The emperor would remain figurehead only. Muso Kukoshi built Toji-in for Takauji in 1341 and it was here that the Ashikaga were memoralised for the next two centuries, statues in their likeness placed inside the Hondo. Destroyed many times by fire and during the Onin Wars, Toji-in became the centre of anti-shogunate feelings in the nineteenth century (hundreds of years after the last Ashikaga shogun was in his grave). The ruling Tokugawa shogunate was so strong that it could not be opposed directly, thus anti-shogunate feelings turned on the Ashikaga who had also shoved the emperor aside to claim control of the country. In April 1863 a group of 20 samurai raided the temple and six men with swords decapitated three of the shogunal images (Takauji, Yoshimitsu and Yoshiakira). Together they supported a return to rule for the emperor. The heads of the statues were placed on the banks of the Kamogawa, a punishment dealt to traitors. The six responsible for the beheadings were caught and themselves beheaded. The others were imprisoned. A few years later and the emperor was indeed reinstated and the shogun removed under the Meiji Restoration of 1868. The temple was raided, looted and many records burnt. As late as 1887 people were still paying money for the privilege of beating the image of Ashikaga Yoshimitsu (founder of Kinkakuji). Toji-in has been restored, but following the backlash of the 1860s has never really recovered as a pilgrimage spot. Few tourists who visit Kyoto, or who know any of the history of the city visit Toji-in. And that is a very sad thing, as it is one of the most beautiful temples in all of Kyoto. The life-like statues of the Ashikaga are missing the 5th and 10th shoguns in the line. Closest to the altar at the far end is Takauji on the left, restored from his former decapitation. Opposite him is Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the Tokugawa shogunate and the forger of modern Japan. Many of the statues still wear beatings of previous years, but have survived surprisingly well. Being able to examine them close-up, alone, without interruption by crowding tourists, was a great privilege. Just to see medieval armour laying without a protective glass case and close enough to touch was very exciting for me. Outside the temple a stone path twists about the Eastern heart-shaped pond (Shinjichi) and the Western lotus pond (Fuyo-chi), through informal gardens. Mount Kinugasa once looked down upon the garden, now blocked by the ugly buildings of Ritsumeikan University. Seiren-tei teahouse sits on a small hill above Toji-in. Between the ponds rests the grave of Takauji Ashikaga, founder of this remarkably underrated temple. For me, it moves close to the top of my most beloved sights in Kyoto, along with Ninna-ji (ironic given some of the buildings once stood in Ninna-ji).

12 05 07 - 23:21 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Kamo-wake-ikazuchi-Jinja

The riverbanks are popular with both tourists and those of us who live here...	....who picnic, walk, cycle, wade, fish and relax along its stretch.	Kamo means duck, though in the upper reaches it is associated with the Kamigamo Shrine.
The Hoso-dono is famous for its cones of sand (representing Ko-yama, home of Kamigamo's deity) which are said to have purificatory powers.	Kamo-wake-ikazuchi-Jinja (Kamigamo Shrine) is the oldest Shinto shrine in Kyoto.	Since prehistoric times Kamigamo-jinja has preserved the legends relating to the birth of the shrine deity, Wakeikazuchi (god of thunder)*.
The Omonoi Stream flows below Kamigamo's famous arched bridge, which you can no longer walk on.	The tower-gate (Ro-mon) and the corridors to right and left are in front of the Main Shrine (Honden).	Kamigamo is famous for the Aoi Matsuri (one of Kyoto's biggest festivals) which started during the reign of Emperor Kinmei in 544
Once crossing the Negibashi Bridge you walk through the Ro-mon Gate (the Chu-mon Gate is only open at New Year) and into the shrine proper.	The Honden (the main sanctuary) was reconstructed (in the Heian style) in 1863 by Emperor Komei, and enshrines the deity Wakeikazuchi.	The Gonden is an exact replica of the main shrine building and serves as a kind of reserve shrine, to house the deity in the event that main shrine building is destroyed or damaged.
This rather sad sub-shrine is hidden away behind Kamigamo, gradually falling to pieces. I rather liked its impoverished charm, set against the crumbling mountainside.	This sacred grove of ancient trees and a tiny stream is used for annual poetry competitions**.	The open expanse of grass before the shrine (a rarity in Japan) is for Kurabe-uma-e-Jinji (the Ritual of the Racehorses on May 5th), popular since Emperor Horikawa in the 11th century.

11 05 07 - 00:06 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

4) A Short Guide to the History of Kyoto: Literary Ladies.

10 05 07 - 00:52 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Artists and courtesans

My birthday falls on Kenpo Kinenbi (Constitution Day). There is no work and summer is just around the corner. We took our bikes into the mountains north our apartment, the refuge of artists in Edo times. Escaping the city, the tourists eventually dry out and it is possible to explore the ancient woodland, musty halls and crumbling tombstones by yourself, with only insects for company. The green hump of Takagamine hill was once a haven for artists, filled with the retreats and temples founded by Hon-ami Koetsu (who was given the land by shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1615). This artist community spread across the pocket of land that falls under the the shadow of Takagamine. Koetsu came from a long line of artists and artisans, an expert in laquerware, poetry, calligraphy, painting, sculpture and literature no less. He is considered one of the three great calligraphers of the Ken-ei Era (Edo period). In the sprawling greenery of his once-home-now-temple are a selection of tea houses, the paths which wind down to Taikyo-an*, the tea house where Koetsu spent the last hours of his life Genko-an Temple sits only a few hundred feet from Koetsu-ji. Although it predates its neighbour by some few hundred years, it was only after a visit from the Zen priest Manzan Dohaku in 1694 (who also changed the Buddhist sect that Genko-an followed) that the temple's fortunes changed and it grew in prominence. Two windows in the main hall have great significance to Zen. One is a round window called Satori-no-mado, which symbolises Zen and religious awakening. The other is a square window called Mayoi-no-mado, which symbolises the 4 human afflictions; to live, to grow old, to be ill, and to die (thus the four sides). The ceiling of this hall is called 'Chi-tenjo' (Blood Ceiling), as it is stained with the blood of warriors killed at Momoyama Castle during the Battle of Fushimi (1600). It originally made up the floor of the castle, but was used as a ceiling in the construction of the temple to pray for peace and the souls of the dead warriors. Amongst the dead was Hikoemon-Mototada Torii (a loyal retainer of Tokugawa Ieyasu), killed in the struggle against Mitsunari Ishida. The well of Genko-an (Chigo-i) is worth noting as it once saved hundreds of lives when Kyoto suffered a period of drought. Miraculously, when all other wells in the area dried up, it continued to produce water. Josho-ji is the third temple on the slopes below Takagamine. On land bequeathed by Koetsu, his son founded a seminary in 1616. There were once over thirty buildings and several hundred scholar-monks busily studying and filling the place with activity. Nowadays the forest continues to reclaim the land and a silence has fallen over the remaining few buildings. Josho-ji is perhaps more famous for its connections to the famed courtesan Yoshino Tayu (1606-1643). Working in Shimabara (Kyoto's pleasure district), Yoshino became one of the most famous tayu (courtesan) in Japanese history. She donated a gate to the temple that stands to this day (the Yoshino Gate) and the cherry trees that line the approach were once planted in her memory. On the 3rd Sunday of April an open air tea ceremony remembers the tayu of Shimabara**. Home to rest and relax and dine and count out my birthday. Thank you for a wonderful day Rhod.

10 05 07 - 00:51 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The new Mrs. Kishida

The newly wed Mrs. Kishida sports the latest in Tarako fashion. Tarako is perhaps one of the strangest phenomenon in a land of strange phenomenon, originating as a new flavour in pasta sauces (cod roe) and developing into not only a creepy commercial (a girl eats pasta, while every few seconds the film cuts to an army of advancing Kewpie dolls dressed up in red, bean-like costumes) but also a multi-million dollar making music single. Such is the success of the marketing that every school kid can be heard humming the song, thousands of people have the little dolls hanging off their cellphones, and people can even dress-up as Tarako (the same hats as worn by the two little girls that sing the infuriatingly addictive song) should they wish to...which they shouldn't...not really.

10 05 07 - 00:48 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Gamer junk

As part one in an occassional series about the gamer junk we have accumulated over time in Japan, we will take a look at just some of the products available to buy. Many will be from capsule 'gachapon' machines (the machines you find on the streets and feed a few hundred yen into for a random toy), some will be readily available from department stores and others will be from a little more specialised shops.		Bandai's 'Cube World' is a series of small colourful blocks that magnetically stick together. Inside each themed block lives a small stick-man that is able to interact with the other cubes around him. Some even take walks into the other cubes. They jog, sleep, exercise, sing, fart, dance, and fight. In Japan they retail for a little over 4000 yen (about 17 pounds for 2) and there are six sets to collect. The sound-bites in my hand retail for 200 yen a piece. Each are based on the sounds from well-known video games (for example a Mario 1-UP) and act as noisy keyring.
Pixel art is taking off in a big way of late. Tomy and King of Games (a company producing licensed Nintendo goods) produce the small packs that you fit together to form well known characters from computer games. Ranging in price from 400 yen to 2000 yen, you are given a blank grid and packs of coloured pieces. Following one of the many patterns given you can make your favourite character in your favourite pose. These items have been in such great demand that many of the series are now unavailable. We have collections from Super Mario Bros., Zelda, Balloon Fight, Ice Climber, Donkey Kong and Dig Dug.		Naruto is a mega hit in Japan. Originally a manga it has been made into an animated TV series (now available in English) and three highly successful films. These Naruto dolls were from a specialist shop in Teramachi shopping street and cost 5000 yen for all 5. I haven't seen them anywhere else. The family of Goombas were bought from various shops for 400, 1000 and 1500 yen. With the release of New Super Mario Bros. DS, Mario goods have swamped the market and you can see goods for sale almost everywhere. Truly geek heaven!*

10 05 07 - 00:42 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Lizard colony

Waiting for John, Charlie and Rhod to finish their visit to Hojo-in, I noticed shapes scurrying around a large boulder beside the entrance.	Taking a closer look, I found a network of holes beneath the large rock...	...and a colony of lizards flitting through the bushes and across the sun-warmed stone.

10 05 07 - 00:39 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

The hill of ears

This mixed set of photos are from Mimizuka on the far Eastern edge of the city and the Katsura-gawa (which cups the city to the far South West), taken on my cycle ride today. Mimizuka (literally Hill of Ears or Ear Mound) is the memorial Toyotomi Hideyoshi constructed to hold the ears and noses of some 38,000 Koreans* that had been slain in the 7 year war** fought between Japan and Korea. Dedicated in 1597, the reasons for the memorial are not entirely known. Some say Hideyoshi wanted to honour the slain Korean soldiers, others say he meant it as a warning for Japan's enemies not to resist conquest. At the time it was unheard of for fallen enemies to be interred in a Buddhist shrine, suggesting that Hideyoshi was more lenient than he could have been and did indeed intend the mound as a memorial. It was tradition for Japanese warriors to return with the heads of their slain enemies, but the distances involved between Korea and Japan made this impractical. Thus they cut off the ears and noses to confirm their deeds and receive rewards. The facial parts were put in barrels of brine and returned to the Imperial capital. Because many barrels were discarded, it will never be known how many Koreans perished in Hideyoshi's invasions. Historians have estimated anywhere between 40,000 and a million on the Korean side alone. Eventually Hideyoshi's war came to nothing and Korea was abandoned following his death. In the 1970s the Korean government called for the levelling of the mound as -to them- it represented nothing more than Japanese cruelty and brutality. Mimizuka is conspicuously missing from history books and maps of Kyoto, a deliberate attempt to quell antagonism between Japan and its Asian neighbour. Not a single visitor passed as I sat and daydreamed in the small park beside the mound.

10 05 07 - 00:38 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

3) A Short Guide to the History of Kyoto: The Power of the Fujiwara (967-1068).

10 05 07 - 00:35 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Lovely Lovely New Gallery System

06 05 07 - 02:57 - rhod - kyonoki| No comments - § ¶

The day John and Charlie came to town

The vermillion walkway and lime green pond of Sanjusangendo.	Stocking up on liquids to combat the hottest day of the year so far.	John and Charlie sitting above the gaudy entrance to Kiyomizu-dera Temple.
The second of Kiyomizu's Buddha Halls almost swallowed by the forest.	John and Charlie manage to push aside the crowds for a picture.	Kiyomizu's famed verandah in the background, flooded with tourists.
'To leap from Kiyomizu' means to take a leap of faith.	May 5th is Children's Day and so Higashiyama was incredibly busy.	A blimp circling the sky above Sanjo Bridge (we have seen it all week).
John and Charlie outside the gate of Heian-Jingu Shrine.	Heian-Jingu is modelled on the original Imperial Palace.	Folded fortune papers turn the trees white outside the main shrine.
John and Charlie admiring the view from Nanzen-ji's massive gate.	On the wooden walk-way at Nanzen-ji.	A colony of lizards live under one of the boulders at Nanzen-ji.

06 05 07 - 00:03 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Judo jive

Mokkun puts on some judo moves...	...challenging Mi-chan and Jake to a fight.	You get the feeling he enjoys being chucked to the ground.

05 05 07 - 21:03 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Birthday Barb

Relaxo Rhod.	Akko and Misako stock up on suncream.	Queen of the BBQ.
Catching some sun and a hug.	Shy Kitty.	Teru and Misako...take the hint!
Alcohol flowing free.	A romantic interlude!	Jake and Tomi battle over control of the BBQ.

05 05 07 - 20:58 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Three nice things for a birthday

A tiny, orange i-pod shuffle.	A fake Poika candle, with an illuminated flame that you blow out.	A strange IZ Sound Machine that plugs into your i-pod and raps along.

03 05 07 - 05:04 - kieren - kyonoki| two comments - § ¶

Monkeys for the day

Monkey Mountain (Iwata-yama), Arashiyama.	Etsuyo excited at the prospect of monkeys.	Vanity battle.
A monkey contemplating how much food Rhod will give him.	An unimpressed monkey gives me the finger.	One of the keepers trying to keep the peace at the monkey ranch.
Nicky, Rhod and Mike with Kyoto far below.	Andy and Etsuyo take a break.	Spot the kids.
The hike back home.	Rowing boats put away for the day.	The sun sets on Arashiyama.

01 05 07 - 19:44 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶

Lotus Paradise

Barely ten minutes by bike from our house is the little visited Hokongo-in Temple, almost imprisoned by train tracks and the busy Marutamachi (Log-Town) Street. Both of which might explain why visitors easily overlook the small gate set amonst the tall hedges. I knew that it was out of season, and that the lotus blooms that make this garden seem like a small paradise in the heart of downtown would still be waiting to push their way out of the waters. The pond was empty and muddy. But the little garden was more than worth a visit. During the summer Hokongo-in is so swamped with lotus plants that it is not possible to see a single patch of water showing through. The lotus is seen as the Buddhist ideal, the beautiful and fragrant flower able to grow and blossom from the muddiest of ponds, the dirtiest of paddy fields. So too, humans have the capacity to rise above the world's imperfections and attain enlightenment. The mountain villa of Kiyohara no Natsuno was transformed into a large temple with pagoda and sprawling grounds in the Heian Period, named Narabigaoka-dera. Kiyohara planted orchards of plum trees and bush clover, giving the temple and the entire grounds the nickname Hanazono, 'Flower Garden'. Emperor Ninmyo was captivated and named the hill that overshadows Hokongo-in Goizan (originally Jugo-i, after the title 'fifth court rank' so taken was he with the gardens). Emperor Montoku renamed the temple Tenan-ji and elevated its status to state temple. But by 974 a massive fire had destroyed the complex and the temple was almost abandoned. In 1130 Taikenmoin, one of the wives of the retired Emperor Toba, took the land as her own home and changed the name of the remaining temple to Hokongo-in. She had Rinken (a priest from Ninna-ji) lay out a garden and lived here happily until her death. Taikenmoin is buried in the hill behind the temple. Her daughter (Josaimonin) continued her work and the religious community began to thrive once more. Soon the Onin Wars destroyed everything again (although the statues created by Ingaku for Taikenmonin survived and are housed in the Buddha Hall). The garden was recreated in 1970 after excavations. The waterfall to the north of the garden (Seijo no Taki) is said to be the only original part of the garden left, which would make it the oldest garden waterfall in Japan. Perhaps it is not sad there are so few visitors, for it makes this small temple special and paradise still.

01 05 07 - 18:34 - kieren - Photostory| No comments - § ¶