Burning Up
The sun is just rising as I hunker over the handle bars of my bike and
scoot through the refreshing morning air to the station. I use our
spare bike so that I can park it illegally, although the brakes don't
work well so it can be a little frightening. But the streets are
deserted just after 6 a.m and so there are no worries. When I get off
the train and catch the bus towards the foothills of the mountains, the
air changes, the sun arching up and the water pulled from the earth and
plants, the river and buildings. As I shouldered my bag and strolled up
the twisting road to my first stop I was sweating all over my body. By
the time I detoured back to my second stop, my school, I changed my
t-shirt and slumped down at my desk to start another day. Sweat is
dripping down my cheeks, my back. My elbows and feet are sweating
although I have never noticed sweating elbows before. And this sweating
doesn't stop the whole eight hours of work. Moving prompts a new layer
of sweat. Students lay half dead, the lazy whir of the fan doing
nothing but forcing hot air onto already slick bodies. Students can't
think and I lose the energy to scold, giving in to the weather and
handing out quiet assignments. Humidity in spite of a drought, tropical
heat although rainy season has failed to come. This is the reality of
Japan's summer. There is no way to stay cool, no way to think or be
comfortable, or sleep unless it is exhaustion. Air conditioning is
cranked so high on the train that it gives you gooseflesh, an ice cream
headache and that throbbing discomfort of machine made cool. I am
beginning to think I will never be cool again. Help me.
27 06 05 - 04:20 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
You Were The Chosen One...
'So this is how democracy dies...to thunderous applause' Quite
possibly one of the most moving and poignant lines in a Star Wars
film.
Episode III is where all the emotion has been hiding...clunky dialogue,
but strangely moving acting. George has cottoned on that his strengths
lie in the carefully plotted action, shunting aside dialogue until well
into the film. Palpatine is persuasive, acid tongued and manipulative.
A brilliant politician. There are problems with the film...Natalie
Portman needs a lot more to do (she would have made a strong image
standing up to Palpatine until the last), some parts seem too contrived
in the struggle to join up to Episode IV, but this film delivers
everything the last two did not. When things spiral out of control,
they do so explosively and despite knowing exactly what is about to
befall each character it is easy to invest shock and horror for them.
Yoda is a cool, although his way of speaking has become more of a joke
so mocked now, it is. We see Chewbacca, Luke and Leia. You can try and
dissect the film, but in the end George Lucas has achieved what he set
out too and so open ended are many of the points towards the end that
it is impossible but to admit that he has indeed set up Episode IV
brilliantly.
26 06 05 - 05:31 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
You're Out Of Touch, I'm Out Of Time
Nice lines of sweat running down the line of my jaw from my saturated
sideburns, pink nose, unbuttoned shirts and rolled up trousers...yep
summer is here. Blue skies dazzling and promising holidays not yet
here. As my I-Pod is gently filling up (3000 songs are not easy to
playlist), I guess he must know it is the season of beaches,
forgotten virtue and rapidly vanishing clothes. More and more summer
songs seem to get played as I switch on shuffle and try with all my
might to forget how uncomfortable I am. You know the kind of
songs...vacuous and repetitive but so so so intoxicating, encapsulating
the fun-loving freedom of vacation time and long weekends doing little
more than barbequeing and tossing a frisbee around. Time to pack away
those deep and meaningful albums, time to crank up the radio and listen
to songs that your mind has no way of getting rid of. Sunset Strippers
and Uniting Nations are my practise for summer feeling. Big on bass,
big on one line of melody, no real words. Yep. The summer starts here.
(more)
24 06 05 - 02:52 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Komainu: Grrrrrrr!
Frank the P.O.'d Komainu here. Up at Nanzen-ji 'till today. Well up for a
drink, but the other Komainus are a pretty stuck up bunch. Will have a
couple by the Kamo and then a hike over to Uzamasa. Not so hot today,
although it was raining cats and gods all last night. Didn't get any
shut eye and first thing I know this morning, this little brat is
peeing up the pedestal. His mother was too busy worrying about his
hair to take much notice. Could have bitten his head off, but thought
would just give him a bit of a scare. Blimey I am getting too old for
this malarkey. Was a time a few hundred years ago when I got fresh mikan
and sake laid out by my feet every few mornings, now I'm lucky to get an
empty can of Kirin.
(more)
23 06 05 - 04:23 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
A Class Apart
'Here in Japan we have no class system. Your country...your
country is famous for it'. I smiled daggers at the teacher, wishing he
would vanish in a puff of blue smoke. 'Yes that's right. Me, well I'm
from the Limehouse slums of London, born and raised under Bow Bells,
fast talking, cockney cheeky, a jellied eels kind of man. Was under the
protection of a drug racket until a job went arse over tit, now I'm
moonlighting as a teacher. Some bent cops keep schtum and all's happy'.
He looked at me grinning awkwardly 'So, you're middle class then?' I
gave him a wink and went to dunk my head in cool water. England is
famed for its class system, but the truth is that although there are
clear lines to be drawn through society, not all of them really have
much to do with how you were raised, if you went to college or what
jobs your parents have. My own grandparents were working class, so by
definition my mum is, but by hook and by crook she has worked damn hard
to make sure me and my brother don't have to face the hardships she had
growing up. Ok it is not all a sob story. In less than one
generation my family has proven that classes are simply a matter of
education, hard work and some sensible choices. So what about Japan?
(more)
23 06 05 - 02:48 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
The Peace of Toji
Following the construction of Heian-kyo, two temples were created,
flanking either side of the long gone but near mythical Rajomon Gate.
Toji lies to the east and Saiji once lay to the West until it was burnt
down in 1233. Both were built in supplication for national peace. Japan
was not yet a united country. Toji soon established itself as the
primary Buddhist temple in Japan. Prayers for the peace and security of
the country continue to be held here. The Kodo and Kondo Halls make up
the temple, the Nandaimon Gate to the south actually not part of the
original Toji. After it burnt down, a new gate was removed in 1894 from
Sanjusanden-do. The pagoda itself (Goju-no-to) is the tallest wooden
structure in Japan. Rebuilt in 1644 it is one of Kyoto's most familiar
symbols.
(more)
22 06 05 - 04:15 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Quotable Idiocy
Easy to look back at University and drown out all
the studying in a rose-tinted memory of warm summer days and those
friends who you shared so much with. Easy to imagine that it was only
yesterday that you moved out of home, warily put down your foot and
began to walk your own path. Easy to forget what was painful, what
lessons you learnt of love and about who you are, easy to remember only
those things that make you grin and ache to be so grown up now. I look
back on university and wish I could do it all again. Not the studying,
the debates about Kings who died centuries ago, the tiny details of the
past examined, but to see my friends again. Being in Japan makes me
long more for those people. But we get older, we move apart, we begin
new lives, new loves. Still, looking back I have the clear voices of
people in my head. Louisa, Beth, Steve, Kevin, Lois, Antony, Emily,
Emma, Kate, Rachel and Andy. Here's to you. And here are some of the
quotes I remember from those three years in the sprawling parkland of
UEA, the haunting victorian house and the cosy Parker Road. Some of the
words are my own, but all of them are true, although you may have to
guess who said what, all of which I hear in my head with your voices...
(more)
22 06 05 - 00:22 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
The Amazing Reversable Cat
Here is the ancient Rhea (Reebee), very spoilt
and very much loved all the way from Japan. The only reversable cat in
the world...stroked one way black, the other way light grey. Boss of
the house, easy to believe she thinks she is human. Shuns cat food for
Munchies and at the slightest shake will come running from miles away.
Constantly locked in battle with my brother...his cruel teasing has
been countered by her attempts at suffocating him while he sleeps by
lying on his face, and lying stretched out on the stairs to trip him
up. Miss you Rheee.

21 06 05 - 06:01 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Thumb in the Door
A little while before I quit my job at juku, my coworker James told me a
story about one of his eventful train journeys. It was to underline his
ongoing quest to prove that beneath the fake smiles and polite
language, Japanese people are some of the rudest and most conceited.
Men looking down on women. Women looking down on everyone. His main
argument was that unlike the forward, pushy Western arrogance, the
Japanese sort is two faced and smothered in syrupy slyness. Hmmmm. Not
sure if I agree, but each day on the way to work he would rant
and rave until I managed to stop listening at all. Then one day he
came up to me red in the face and growling. 'Unbelievable.
Un-bloody-bloody-believable. Slimey git. Hope his thumb falls off'. So
then the tale unfolded. Deep down I am sure he was happy it had
happened. Finally he has justification for his anger. Sort of.
(more)
21 06 05 - 04:09 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Cruelty To Ki
When I was young and my parents were refusing
to let me do what I wanted (pond diving, relandscaping the garden to
fit in my own brand of swimming pool, escaping the clutches of my dad
to stay up late), I used to offer up a cheek and tell them to slap. I
was never spoilt but I am sure I was a little shit at times. My dad
would sigh, pick me up and throw me over his shoulder and carry me
upstairs, all the while with me spouting the Childline phone number,
ridiculously in the same jaunty tone as the commercial. My parents
would be unable to conceal their laughter and it came as something of a
joke, which enraged me even further. The only time I managed to get one
up on them was by running away. Or rather, sneaking downstairs while
they were watching TV and placing a note on the breakfast bar that said
I had run off. I then went and hid under the bed. But then I fell
asleep. A few hours later and a tearful reprimand after my mum and dad
had pulled the house apart in panic, I have never felt so awful or
guilty (although sometimes I swear I am catholic I have so much pent up
guilt)...
(more)
21 06 05 - 03:03 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Frank The Komainu
Ousssssssssss. Frank here. Did a stint down at Ikuta Shrine in Kobe.
Part-time thing. Got to watch out for the damn pigeons, but managed to
scare off a few children and eat up some yummy dango from one of the
stalls. Anyway, taking the JR back to Kyoto got me thinking about the
Japanese and direction.
If a Japanese person was a car then he would have no steering wheel.
You see they only have forward or stop. When you are walking in the
street have you ever seen them look behind them before changing
direction. And when they sense you want to overtake they simply stop,
without pulling aside, making you crash into them. No matter how many
times it happens I still cannot quite believe that their brain has no
function of left or right. Crazy. A good example is the Second World
War or the government policies of today...once pushed in a forward
motion they cannot be stopped, simply careen forward pushed faster and
faster until BAM. CRASH.
You have been warned. If you are down at Nanzen-Ji you may want
to pop in and give me a call. Be there from tomorrow on. Cheers.

20 06 05 - 05:33 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Behind The Times
Squeezing into the tiny lift, beside two chubby
salarymen reeking of smoke and amazingly large, I whistled, praying that
we were still within the safety limit for weight. Creaking and groaning
the lift managed to climb two floors and I heard an audible sigh as the
men departed. I dashed out not wanting to risk the coffin sized trap
any longer. I pushed my way through the waiting room and found the
Foreign Residents Desk tucked neatly out of the way so noone can find
it. I handed over my receipt and waited while they approved my new ID
card, with my new address. As I sat back on the torn leather stool,
covered in what looked like the claw marks of a rampant tiger, I felt a
gloomy depression envelop me. Looking around I could see why. The
building was a miserable throw back to the time that taste (in
particular architecture) forgot.
(more)
20 06 05 - 03:22 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
It Begins
How can a movie about a man so messed up by his childhood traumas, so
explosively angry at his inability to alter the past, be so feel good.
I had a massive grin on my face the whole time. Batman is back and the
Brits have got it right. No bullshit, just a straightforward tale,
cutting off all excess. It is what it says. The beginning. Chris Nolan
has created a masterpiece and hands down my favourite movie of the last
few years. For it to be this entertaining you just know that so much
hard work has gone into it. Also some smart decisions. The cast is
quite incredible: Katie Holmes shines in her role (I had to check it
was really her), Morgan Freeman, Gary Oldman and Liam Neeson are quite
simply brilliant, Cillian Murphy has the most disconcerting and
unsettling look of a character in any recent movie (even before he masks up), and Michael Caine
is...well...Michael Caine. Christian Bale not only makes this movie his
own, but creates so much sympathy that it is kind of hard not to cheer
for him. I have to admit I was just laughing, in awe of the action that
finally delivers. Ok I should really wind down, before I get too wound
up. Bombastic and beautifully haunting music by Hans Zimmer and James
Newton Howard make it hard to stop humming as you walk home. Unlike before, Batman exists in our world, or rather in a world
only a little removed. Gotham is placed very much within our geographical boundaries
and neatly slotted in historically. Everything we see has a footing in
the possible and the fantastic elements of Batman are dumbed down to
create plausible characters. Any head scratching over the new Batmobile
vanished in a second. They have revolutionised this character and all
the gadgets that go along with him. If you are on the fence about going
to see this movie, drop down and give it a go. You have to make this
movie a success. DC are finally getting things right. Cleverly having
the guts to scrap everything that has come before, they have carefully
ensured that the villains can be ressurected, while leading us all down
the path towards the sequel. Batman turning over a playing card. A
jester. One word for you. JOKER.


19 06 05 - 05:48 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Tequila!
Perhaps not the best idea to scoff down chilli peppers and tabasco
sauce, but then again I heard that Indians eat hot food because it
helps to cool them down. Or is that just because they are mad. Tomi
should win an award, or at least start presenting a cooking programme
for NHK. The blurb would be something like this, imagine a
scottish voice over the titles to the programme... each week we give
Tomi a tiny budget, specific ingredients, we chose a country and then
tell her to whip something up that is appealing and delicious. Bear in
mind that Rhod can't eat any dairy products and Ki hates anything
touched by cucumber, tomato, celery and generally things that are
green, and you have your hands full. Hands up, Tomi is an amazing cook.
We were debating what to buy for Mexican night but after a bit of
umming and ahhing she decided she would make everything for scratch. A
little bit of research and a hell of a lot of chopping and we had
fantastic tacos and salad. Not sure if humous is Mexican, but there was
quite a lot of that too. Best Mexican food this side of the pacific.
Thanks Tomi. Next challenge...a satisfying salad with nothing red or
green or fishlike. Wink. We had a taco for Mart and Rach. Cheers guys.

(more)
18 06 05 - 08:26 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Kamigamo Shimogamo
Cycling across Kyoto in the first humid day of the year (so hot), we planned to meet
Tomi to go and buy food for Mexican night from the foreign food shop
close to her house. With a little time to kill, we decided to park our
bikes and take a walk over to the shrines at the back of her house. Tomi's
house is actually in the precinct of the Kamigamo Shrine. After trying
to decide which one we should visit, I was told that they were actually
the same shrine and so we sweated our way up the Kamo river and then
across on to the small peninsular created by the merging of the Kamo
and Takano. A few years ago I had visited Kamigamo for the Aoi Matsuri,
but then it had been a sea of jostling bodies crushed against one
another, today I thought I might be able to go inside the shrine and
walk around the quiet and haunting forest.
(more)
18 06 05 - 04:14 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Remembering Shodo-shima
Waking up at 4.30, cycling like mad to take the first train, catching a
bus while the sun was still a glow on the horizon, cold and tired, I
wondered what the hell my friend Aki was doing dragging me along for a
three day trip. Piling onto the ferry, we threw our bags into one of
the tatami rooms (no furniture, just a carpeted floor for stretching
out on and sleeping) and went on deck as the ship pulled out into Osaka
Bay. Slowly we skimmed the edge of Kobe city, the water perfectly still
and the morning gently warming as a brilliantly orange sun broke free.
My dad always asks me if I have ever seen the sun rise, huge and
seeming to swallow the horizon in a fiery haze. I tell him again and
again that the sun is better and hotter and more dramatic on the
equator and as Japan is at the same latitude as England that it looks
the same. Although the Japanese call the sun red and not yellow-orange.
That morning the sun was huge and round and I could look at it without
having to turn away.
(more)
17 06 05 - 02:59 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Gunkanjima
My mind mystifies me a lot of the time. How can it be so poor at math,
yet be able to keep hold of a single name; even when it discards the
reason it has kept hold of that name for so long. It often occurs to me
that we
might be able to see a little bit of the future and that we store away
scraps of words and dates that will face us in a few years time. That
certainly seems to be the case with me. I store away a date, a name, a
place, thinking that it is interesting but on the whole not very
useful.
Then - be it a month or a year later - I see the date or name in a
newspaper or on a poster. Ok, so it doesn't sound very spooky, but it
seems to happen to me a lot. As if my mind is way ahead of me and
preparing me for what things I will take part in or do in the future.
Today I came across Gunkanjima and remembered that it was in a Russian
Economics seminar at university that I first heard this name.

(more)
17 06 05 - 01:18 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Suppenschwein
Just before lunch I was told to pack my bag and get ready to leave
school. Wandering up to the gate I found the third years being shoved
and pushed into waiting coaches. As they chattered noisily I took a
seat and as with any moving vehicle fell asleep two seconds after we
had been on the road. Half an hour later we were at the National Art
Gallery in Osaka to view a new exhibition by Michael Sowa. The name was
not familiar and so I joined the students and made my way around. Then
I realised that I knew his artwork, knew it very well. A postcard of a
tiny pig sitting in a bowl of muddy soup sits on my desk pinned to a
box. If you have ever watched the film Amelie, you will know his art
from looking at the paintings hanging in her bedroom. He takes a normal
setting and adds an element of surrealism to it. Animals behave as
humans and humans like animals. Although not quite cartoonish, his
artwork has a light and comedic touch that never fails to draw out
a smile. If you ever get the chance to look at his artwork...go!.

17 06 05 - 00:31 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Heavy On My Heart
London sits like a glimmering cluster of bridges, palaces, cobbled
lanes, immense monuments, the fast flowing mud of the Thames, and the
severe buildings on the canvas of my mind. So woven is its thread in my
memories and self, that although my family left London for the
countryside after I was born, it will at heart always be for me the
closest place to my home. I remember the grey, derelict landscape of
the East End, staying with my grandparents and being awed by slow
redevelopment of the docks. I remember the friendly faces, the alien
terraces, blocks of flats, and the safety of my family. London has
always been appealing, alluring while at the same time scaring me
because I always knew that of any cities in the world, London hides so
much history, so much darkness and wealth, secrets hushed beneath the
fog and grime of centuries. London is the reason I love history so
much, the reason I am able to see what our Empire was once like. It has
survived turbulance and uncertainty to assert itself as singularly the
most dynamic and traditional places on this planet.
Invasion, plague, civil war, fire, bombing...London's spirit is as
strong as the English. We are a stubborn and secretly proud people,
cowed by our apologetic nature, yet deep in our hearts determined to be
honourable and too long guilty about our past successes. Empire's rise
and fall. London was the hub of the last great Empire. Debates can rage
about the misery Empire inflicted, the arguments can be fought against
Britain at this time, but little matter in the long run. London remains
a gem, even when the Empire has given way to other stronger powers.
Unlike other great Imperial cities, London survived, adapted, while
keeping it's identity.
I love this city. That someone would wish to harm, hurt, kill innocent
people. That someone would want attack London. Well, good luck to you.
I think that you must see sense in your beliefs. I think that you must
see that violence is the only way. That revenge is necessary. But you
are foolish to believe that London would blink, would halt, would
shudder to an end. It has survived a thousand years, each time emerging
stronger, greater, more awesome that before. Try all you want. London
is not for the taking. It's people are a determined bunch.
16 06 05 - 04:20 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Wako Tako
Takoyaki is strangely addictive, yet if
someone had walked up to me in England and told me that chopped up bits of
octopus cooked in a ball of batter was good I would have laughed it
off. The chewyness somehow makes it satisfying as both a snack and
filling as a meal. For my birthday I got a Takoyaki maker and although
I am having to blackmail people to come and cook on it, I am gleeful
that I can cook up optopus whenever I like. Famous as an Osakan
dish it is probably the most popular dish amongst my students, who
think it is hilarious that I rate takoyaki way above sushi. But
then today I stuck on the telly and saw that it was about octopi
(octopusses?) so sat down and watched it for a while. Slowly my cheeks
went a shade of green and I had to concentrate hard to keep my lunch
down.

(more)
16 06 05 - 03:05 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Alice Down The Rabbit Hole
As I was walking up the stairs I met a man who wasn't there. He wasn't there again today, I wish I wish he'd go away.
Like Alice tumbling down the rabbit-hole into Wonderland, a world of
unequalled strangeness and oddity, so I feel like I have slipped and
tumbled into a place that seems not quite real. As in that well worn
tale, bizarre things have started happening to me. Well not just
me. If that were the case then I could safely be locked in a padded
cell, but in the school grounds generally. Like that scratched message
on the shrine pillar...a Doorway seems to be well and truly open, and
all types of weird are pouring out.
(more)
15 06 05 - 04:10 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Portraits in Life
I am always accused of being more interested in taking photos of
strange angles, unusual exposures, the world about me than in the
people that really make up the whole picture. Guess it is easy to take
people for granted, but people make memories and so here are just a
collection of photos of people who whether they know it or not have
shaped my life in Japan. Goddamn it Louisa and Mitsuko, I need more
photos of you (for those of you who missed the subtle joke, Louisa is
standing on the spot where the Great Fire of London ignited and so she
is looking understandably shocked, if 350 years too late).
15 06 05 - 03:39 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
2nd Time Unlucky
The 2nd Grade classrooms look like a prison. There are no posters, no
plants, definately no thumb-tacks, no toilet rolls unless asked for, no
soap and at best sparse furniture. Unlike the other buildings, as you
enter you get the impression that a guard should be stopping you any
moment to do a frisk and ask you who you have come to visit. Windows
are broken regularly, the walls are dirty with hand and footprints, the
desks and chairs are covered in grafitti and doors are twisted out of
their frames. As for the students themselves most look like they should
be working street corners, holding up a bank or else going head to head
with other gang members in a back alley. A bit harsh? Well maybe, and
then again maybe not. Some students have those murderous glances in
which you actually think that there may be so much hate inside them
that they will snap sooner or later, others have blank eyes that tell
you their minds have gone on holiday for the duration of school.
Pulling a student back into his chair as he shouted abuse at my
co-worker, standing and waving his hands whilst calling her an ugly
bitch and stupid woman, I was more shocked when she did nothing but
ignored him. As he calmed down, sneering and joking with his friends,
she simply shrugged and went back to teaching the rest of the class.
(more)
14 06 05 - 02:57 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Frank The Komainu
Hello. I am Frank the Shrine-Guardian and every week I will be giving
you advice and telling you about things that have troubled me during my
travels.
Today: Louis Vuitton! Why?

14 06 05 - 02:17 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Bureaucracy Gone Mad
Japan is the largest importer of hardwood in
the world, gobbling up millions of tonnes of trees a year to construct
houses (despite Japan's new reliance on concrete, it utilises wooden
frames to shape the concrete, uses them once and then throws them away),
touch up shrines and temples, utilise in the home and on disposable
chopsticks (billions a year). As a forested island, Japan's reliance on
wood is astonishing given how much of it is wasted and how small
Japan's own forestry industry is. Ok so my point is not really aimed at
the horrible destruction of trees, well not quite. Japan is a country
of bicycles. Every family owns one and in many cases every family
member owns one. They are everywhere, scooting inbetween cars, ringing
you out of the way, recklessly oblivious to other human beings,
squealing from lack of care. Japanese people rarely take good
care of their bikes. Yet again getting away from the point.
(more)
13 06 05 - 04:28 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Tale of Woe
Names have been changed to protect the innocent. Do not read any further if you are easily shocked. This is not a pleasant tale.
Feeling blue, I can remember my friend telling me a story to cheer me up.
My friend (let us call her Kate) was in the process of moving house to
live with her boyfriend, but was inbetween everything. Half her things
were in her parents house and half in her new flat. At dinner after
work one day her mum had been helping out putting things in boxes and
cleaning the new apartment. She had been going through Kate's extensive
makeup selection and found a bottle of deodrant. Now lets just say that
this deodrant was not for under your arms and was to make other bits of
you smell nice. No more said on that.
(more)
13 06 05 - 01:12 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Down and Out in Kyoto
Ok, rewind a little bit to the beginning of May and a week of holidays
give or take strung out in a row. Greenary Day, Constitution Day (or as
it is known in the rest of the world...Ki's birthday) and
Childrens Day are celebrated one after another giving workers a much needed
break. After my move to Kyoto and Rhod's delayed visa we didn't have
much money between us so we decided that rather than risking the miles
and miles of traffic jams we would stay in Kyoto and explore the
Western hills behind our apartment. Cycling about the foothills at
random we did a whirlwind tour of shrines, temples and mountains in the
four or so days we weren't working. What surprised me most is that in
about ten or fifteen minutes we can leave the city completely behind.
(more)
12 06 05 - 08:22 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Fading Landscapes
When I first came to Kobe I never thought it would feel so much like
home, so much like a shelter from my homesickness, close to everything
my heart would need...a job that I truly enjoyed waking up to, the
mountains to hike in, the beach a few train stops away. To say goodbye
seemed a pretty impossible thing. Then again we don't know what lies
around the corner, what forks our journey will take us down. So it is
to be Kyoto. Not such a hard move, not so far away.
(more)
11 06 05 - 02:15 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
The Feathery Fate of Kazuo
Kazuo is a lively 4th grade
student, always with sweaty hair and a gravelly voice from his
screaming exersions. Perpetually grimey from scuffling and rolling
about the dirt playground, his good humoured nature can sometimes be a
little too overbearing and bullysome to his classmates. He has that
kind of bottomless energy that could power an entire city for a month.
However he tends to pick on those who do not roll around at his crude
jokes and disastrous pranks.
(more)
10 06 05 - 21:58 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
The Wrath of Michizane
Cycling just about north, cutting
through small alleyways and steaming hot streets, through arcades of
shops that look faded and rundown, still clinging to the 70s, much like
a decaying British seaside town, you come to Kitano Temmangu Shrine. To
say it is hard to miss is a bit of an understatement as two giant
dog-lion-dragons look down at you, gulping on the sidewalk, unsure
whether to go in, unsettled by their resemblance to the monstrous
gargoyles in Ghostbusters. But miss it I did until Rhod became sick
this year. Taxiing back and forth between the hospital we kept passing
the huge gate, but it was only when we started cycling to the doctor
that we thought about seeing what the shrine was like. People were
streaming back and forth so we guessed that it must have some kind of
importance. It is one of those shrines you often hear about, but have
no idea where exactly they are or what they are like. Following the
winding, lantern cluttered driveway we came to Temmangu.
(more)
10 06 05 - 04:03 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Prairie Monkeys and The Petting Zoo
With a stiffled yawn, I slip into the chair nearest the door and as a
few people turn around I challenge them with my eyebrows raised shocked
that they might think I had not been there the whole time. As the fans
whir lazily back and forth, circulating a soup of warm air I try not to
doze off as the teachers meeting drones on well into the afternoon.
Outside the sounds of the children playing in the baking heat drifts
through the open window and like usual I eventually stop listening to
the monotonous Japanese and plan out a detailed escape in my head.
This time it involves a fire alarm and a quick shimmy down a drain-pipe.
(more)
10 06 05 - 02:30 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
A Life Not Lived
I was once told that loss is the greatest challenge
we have to face as we get older. I guess that for some people personal
loss comes much more quickly than others, but we all lose our
childhood, leave behind school, friends, the life we live can take us
to unexpected places meaning that we lose a lot more than we ever
imagined. Since being in Japan time is a much more marked thing as the
students I spend my daily life with grow up and graduate. Some students
make such an impression on me that even if I don't stay in touch with
them, I always have memories that don't fade as other do. One of those
memories is sitting in the middle of a badminton court, sweaty and
holding a bloody nose, shaking with laughter and not being able to
stand. A shuttlecock had smacked my nose and cause a gush of blood
which I found so ridiculous that I had to laugh, and eventually the
other students (Nezu and Hirofumi) made it impossible for me to do
anything else but roll around at how ridiculous it is to be taken down
by a harmless shuttlecock.
(more)
09 06 05 - 06:23 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
The Bald Little Professor
As I journey home on the train, I manage to
read until the train reaches the Kyoto border, then my eyes get too
heavy, the book falls onto my lap and like clockwork I sleep until my
stop at Sanjo. Today I started to doze, lucky as usual to get a seat by
myself, knocked out by the mild airconditioning. After a while I woke
myself up, because something didn't feel right. Groggily I rubbed my
eyes and wearily turned to my side. A bald little Japanese man looked
at me, frowned, touched my arm and said 'What is God up to?'. I raised
my eyebrows and prayed that this was still a dream. Then he asked me
again 'Do you think God cares about how crazy we get?' Nope, wasn't a
dream.
(more)
09 06 05 - 03:23 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
By Imperial Invitation
This is pretty late, but as I cycled through the
sea of gravel about Gosho, skimming off some journey time on my way to
the Kamo, I thought of the endless times I had walked around it with my
parents and friends, wondering what it would be like to have a peek
inside the Imperial chambers. Twice a year the gates open to the
public. Sure, it is not as exciting as winning the Golden Ticket and
getting the chance to wander around the Chocolate Factory, but then
again there is no chance of getting sucked into chocolate lake, blown
up to the size of an elephant or attacked by malevolent squirrels. In a
sense I remember Gosho so much because it was the first time Rhod
showed me around Kyoto and I started getting the sense that I could
come to love the city, once I looked past the false facade of tourism
and that lovely Kyoto attitude (would give Kobe a run for its money).
(more)
09 06 05 - 03:03 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Invasion of the Body Suckers
While I get home with the sun still burning my skin and glaring off the
streets and buildings, Rhod leaves Q Games at half eight and so emerges
in the relative cool of evening. He cycles home by skirting the outer
wall of Nijo Castle and it is ten minutes give or take straight home.
Yesterday night as he passed the castle he felt hundreds of tiny specks
striking his face, so much so that he had to keep his mouth firmly shut
and his eyes no more than slits. As the insects squashed and squelched
and battered against him, he was forced more than once to stop and
shake out his tee-shirt. Looking under the sodium glare of the street
lamps he could see the air infested with miniscule flies all swarming
this way and that. Understandably he picked up speed and tried to get
home as quickly as possible, praying that the sweat didn't glue them to
his body in a gross layer.
(more)
07 06 05 - 03:10 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Three Boats and a Monkey
Grabbing Jol and James, Rhod and I cycled along the tramline, skirted
around Ninna-Ji Temple (with it's fantastic wooden buddha, each hand
broken off, leaving jagged stumps that somehow make it more real,
easier to believe that as the men carved it England was being invaded
by Normandy and Harold was about to be blinded and killed by an arrow
to the eye) and scooted to Arashiyama for the
Mifune Matsuri. Although
we cancelled a picnic, we figured we would risk the wind and rain to
see the three boat festival.
(more)
02 06 05 - 05:56 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
The Doorway
When the sun is beating so hard that the heat seems
to thrum and pulse in the air, when the rain is splashing down and
gushing down the gutters, or when I feel like escaping from the
claustrophobic atmosphere of the teachers room, then I take my lunchbox
outside. Walking through the school vegetable gardens, through
the orchards, you come to a fence. One section is rusted and twisted
and if you lift a flap of wire up you can wiggle through into a shrine.
A wildly overgrown path, with grass reaching up to your waist, cuts
through the wastegrounds at the back of the school and comes out at a
minature shrine hidden away in the shadow of an outcropping of rock.
Sitting on the rocks it is nice to read, soak up the quiet and escape
for a few minutes as students scream and shout about the school. Fresh
mikan and sake put out is the only hint that the tiny shrine has not
been forgotten, but slowly time is rotting away at the wood, the torii
gate lays drunkenly against a tree and the paint is peeling. It is
decrepid and ugly, yet has a musty charm, hidden behind a giant ginko
tree. Slowly it is being squeezed out of existinence by my school and the
neighbouring nursery school, yet stands strong, the habitat
of students in the evening who smoke and drink yet leave the shrine
alone and do no damage.
(more)
02 06 05 - 03:42 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
Grace This Fish!
Grace this fish once had lovely black lips, fins and a speckled body
that perfectly complimented her bright orange scales. But no more. In a
move to equal Micheal Jackson, and to be honest better him, she has
lost her black roots. Grace is now just orange. Happy to say that after
this development she seems to be doing swimmingly well.
01 06 05 - 03:27 - kieren - kyonoki| - § ¶
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